Check power is good, probe across terminals 9 and 10, check for roughly 24V.
Check detector head is seated, rotate counterclockwise and reattach it by turning clockwise until it’s seated.
Check transparent lid, ensure it is fitted and not ajar and all screws are tightened, SW1 can be inspected for damage if the lid has been installed incorrectly previously.
SL2000 terminals 12 and 20 must be connected between all detectors desired to be interconnected, a common power source must be used such that all detectors interconnected must be powered from a common 24VAC transformer, or mains power circuit. LEDs wont light up but the relay will click.
For a common remote for common test/reset, 1 and 20 must be connected between all desired detectors. LEDs will light up
In a typical class B fire alarm configuration wire one wire from your fire alarm panel to terminal 13 and the other to 14. Make a wire jumper from terminal 13 to terminal 5 and place your end of line resistor to terminals 14 and 15.
For applications of multiple duct smoke detectors on a single fire alarm circuit, all alarm contacts must be wired to the panel in parallel with all trouble contacts wired in series with the end of line resistor on the very last detector. Refer to Page 4 of the installation guide for wiring diagram.
Alarm contact terminals 16 and 6 (normally closed and common) can be used to break the red 24V power wire to the thermostat.
16 and 6 effectively works as a switch, in a normal condition 16 is connected to 6 and when in alarm 16 is disconnected from 6.
Some residential furnaces have a fan rundown mode where the fan will run even after a signal from the thermostat, these furnaces sometimes have a DIL switch to program this feature or alternatively power can be broken to the furnace alternate to the thermostat by breaking the neutral power to the furnace through terminals 16 and 6.
For 24v, wire break the wire from the furnace and the thermostat. Connect the wire from the thermostat to 16 and the wire from the furnace to 16. Use the 24v transformer from the furnace. The 24v to terminal 10 and the common connects to terminal 9. For 115
MAGNET TESTING: Place the magnet on top of the housing between the raised sections above the detector head (as indicated by the arrows on the unit cover). Allow at least five seconds for alarm initiation. Remove magnet and reset detector.
SMOKE TESTING: Using smoke test canister with testing nozzle (part number TG-2000 or ), insert the test gas nozzle into the test port on the unit cover. Press can against cover to release gas into the chamber. After 15 to 20 seconds the detector head will go into alarm, illuminating the detector head LED and causing the duct unit functions to operate, alarm relays will change state, and the alarm related remote accessories, if attached, will function. If no test gas is available to conduct functional testing, remove cover and, while holding down the cover removal switch, blow smoke from a cotton wick or punk directly at the head to cause an alarm. The alarm indicator should illuminate within one minute.
-For the MSR-100 Remote accessory wiring, use the following wiring connections: C+ to 20, T/R to 1, P+ to 2, AL+ to 11, C- to 19.
-For the MSR-50 Remote accessory wiring, use the following wiring connections: T/R to 1, P+ to 2, AL+ to 11, C- to 19.
-For MS series remotes, only wire for the features on your remote. For instance a remote with a key and red LED would only wire for those features. The following are the wiring contacts:
Red alarm LED- black wire to 19, red wire to 11
Buzzer- black wire to 19, red wire to 11
Green pilot LED- black wire to 19, red wire to 2
Key or pushbutton test and reset- 1 black wire to 1 and the other black wire to 20
Yellow trouble LED- black wire to 19, red wire to 4, and a jumper between 20 and 15
-For individual horns, strobes or horn and strobe combos, Wire the positive to 14, the negative to 19, and put a jumper between 13 and 20
Alarm contact terminals 16 and 6 (normally closed and common) can be used to break the red 24V power wire to the thermostat. 16 and 6 effectively works as a switch, in a normal condition 16 is connected to 6 and when in alarm 16 is disconnected from 6. Some residential furnaces have a fan rundown mode where the fan will run even after a signal from the thermostat, these furnaces sometimes have a DIL switch to program this feature or alternatively power can be broken to the furnace alternate to the thermostat by breaking the neutral power to the furnace through terminals 16 and 6.
The ionization sensor is part number 55000-225APO and the Photoelectric sensor is part number 55000-328APO. To replace the sensor, remove the cover and twist the sensor to the left. Use the new sensor into the base twist to the right until it clicks into place.
Check power is good, probe across terminals 9 and 10, check for roughly 24V.
Check detector head is seated, rotate counterclockwise and reattach it by turning clockwise until it’s seated.
Check transparent lid, ensure it is fitted and not ajar and all screws are tightened, SW1 can be inspected for damage if the lid has been installed incorrectly previously.
Duct smoke detectors can be mounted any way either vertically or horizontally if the sampling tube holes are facing the direction of airflow.
NFPA72 recommends all sampling tubes to be at least 80% of the duct width i.e. if your duct is 12 inches wide, the sampling tube must be at least 9.6 inches long.
Recommended procedure is removing detector head and running on external 24V power supply and detector base using an SDI Trutest 801 for testing sensitivity.
If it’s an old installation, check the detector head and housing for excessive dust. Detectors can be blown out with compressed air or replacement detector heads ordered, 55000-328 for -P model or 55000-225 for the -N model.
If detector is interconnected to another detector in the system, this can be checked by looking to see if there are wires on terminals 1,12 and 20, check to see if the other detector is maybe in alarm.
If it’s a new installation, if detector has been wired to a remote or accessories remove wiring such that only power is connected, if it stops going into alarm confirm correct wiring for model of remote when reattaching and that key switch is not activated.
In some situations of high humidity or temperature swings such as in sunbelt states condensation can build up on and inside detectors which can cause false alarms, we recommend moving a detector further downstream on ductwork or inside building where temperature swings might not be as extreme.
If detector still goes into alarm when all wiring removed, replace detector head or RMA unit.
If 1 and 20 are attached to the fire panel for reset make sure it’s and open contact
Alarm contact terminals 16 and 6 (normally closed and common) can be used to break the red 24V power wire to the thermostat.
16 and 6 effectively works as a switch, in a normal condition 16 is connected to 6 and when in alarm 16 is disconnected from 6.
Some residential furnaces have a fan rundown mode where the fan will run even after a signal from the thermostat, these furnaces sometimes have a DIL switch to program this feature or alternatively power can be broken to the furnace alternate to the thermostat by breaking the neutral power to the furnace through terminals 16 and 6.
Breaking same power used to power detector when in alarm. Use a separate 24VAC transformer, power supply or mains power.
Air product and controls duct smoke detectors are not compatible, or UL listed to work with System Sensor or other manufacturer’s remotes.
SL2000 terminals 12 and 20 must be connected between all detectors desired to be interconnected, a common power source must be used such that all detectors interconnected must be powered from a common 24VAC transformer, or mains power circuit. Alarm Led will not light up but relays will click
For a common remote for common test/reset, 1 and 20 must be connected between all desired detectors. Alarm led will light up .
SL2000 terminals 12 and 20 must be connected between all detectors desired to be interconnected, a common power source must be used such that all detectors interconnected must be powered from a common 24VAC transformer, or mains power circuit. Alarm Led will not light up but relays will click
For a common remote for common test/reset, 1 and 20 must be connected between all desired detectors. Alarm led will light up.
Normally open and common relay contacts on the fire alarm interface can be connected to terminals 1 and 20 on the SL2000 duct smoke detector.
Correct airflow can be confirmed with the use of a magnehelic differential pressure gauge between the sampling and exhaust tubes of the detector, a reading between 0.01 and 1.2 inches of water verifies enough airflow.
The detector head can be tested for correct operation by spraying TG-2000 test gas into the test port of the detector, an alarm would be expected. Continued testing also includes using the included test magnet on the top of the duct smoke detector housing between the 2 marked lines indicated on lid, again an alarm would be expected to confirm correct operation.
The detector control board and relays can be tested for correct operation by pressing the black test/reset button in the transparent lid hole, an alarm condition would verify correct operation (red LED on board).
Alarm contact terminals 16 and 6 (normally closed and common) can be used to break the red 24V power wire to the thermostat. 16 and 6 effectively works as a switch, in a normal condition 16 is connected to 6 and when in alarm 16 is disconnected from 6. Some residential furnaces have a fan rundown mode where the fan will run even after a signal from the thermostat, these furnaces sometimes have a DIL switch to program this feature or alternatively power can be broken to the furnace alternate to the thermostat by breaking the neutral power to the furnace through terminals 16 and 6.
12 and 20 for global shutdown
For the MSR-100 Remote accessory wiring, use the following wiring connections: C+ to 20, T/R to 1, P+ to 2, AL+ to 11, C- to 19.
For the MSR-50 Remote accessory wiring, use the following wiring connections: T/R to 1, P+ to 2, AL+ to 11, C- to 19.
For MS series remotes, only wire for the features on your remote. For instance a remote with a key and red LED would only wire for those features. The following are the wiring contacts:
Red alarm LED- black wire to 19, red wire to 11
Buzzer- black wire to 19, red wire to 11
Green pilot LED- black wire to 19, red wire to 2
Key or pushbutton test and reset- 1 black wire to 1 and the other black wire to 20
Yellow trouble LED- black wire to 19, red wire to 4, and a jumper between 20 and 15
Correct airflow can be confirmed with the use of a magnehelic differential pressure gauge between the sampling and exhaust tubes of the detector, a reading between 0.01 and 1.2 inches of water verifies enough airflow.
The detector head can be tested for correct operation by spraying TG-2000 test gas into the test port of the detector, an alarm would be expected. Continued testing also includes using the included test magnet on the top of the duct smoke detector housing between the 2 marked lines indicated on lid, again an alarm would be expected to confirm correct operation.
The detector control board and relays can be tested for correct operation by pressing the black test/reset button in the transparent lid hole, an alarm condition would verify correct operation (red LED on board).
The best methods of cleaning are to vacuum the detector head thoroughly or to blow the detector head out using
clean, dry compressed air. Do not use chemicals or non-conforming air to clean the detector head housing as this could contaminate the detector head and damage the casing. Sensing tubes must be inspected and cleaned in to allow the free flow of air through both inlet and exhaust tubes.
Only some panel that handle Apollo Communication protocol can handle the addressable detectors, most cases are conventional detectors
UL, ULC, MEA
recheck the wiring on the remotes. If there is a green light on the detector that means there should be no trouble on the remotes